Lonesome Highway — Modoc Plateau Rim Road to Lava Beds via Tule Lake Wildlife Refuge
California's empty quarter — lava, birds, and war history.
Most Californians couldn’t point to Modoc County on a map, which is exactly what makes this run worth doing. Starting near Alturas, you roll east and north across the Modoc Plateau — a vast high desert bench at roughly 4,500 feet that feels more like eastern Oregon than anything most people think of as California. The route winds through the Tule Lake National Wildlife Refuge basin, one of the most important waterfowl flyways in North America, before dropping into the otherworldly lava fields surrounding Lava Beds National Monument. The monument itself holds over 800 lava tube caves, the Modoc War battlefield sites from the 1872–73 conflict, and Captain Jack’s Stronghold — a lava fortress where a small band of Modoc warriors held off the US Army for months. The loop back via Medicine Lake Highlands adds a volcanic plateau at 7,000 feet with dispersed camping that rivals anything in the Sierra.
Most of the route runs on maintained gravel and paved county roads — a stock 4WD or even a capable 2WD can handle dry conditions. The Medicine Lake Highlands spur adds some rougher doubletrack worth having clearance for. Best season is May through October; winter snows close Medicine Lake road entirely. No permit for driving, though some cave exploration at Lava Beds requires free permits at the visitor center. Fuel up in Alturas or Tulelake — there’s nothing in between. Cell service is nonexistent across most of the plateau.
Trail Specs
| Difficulty | Easy |
|---|---|
| Trail Type | Overland Route, Scenic Drive |
| Surface | Dirt, Gravel, Mixed |
| Features | Camping, Historic, Remote, Scenic, Wildlife |
| Length (miles) | 95 mi / 152.9 km |
| Duration | 1-2 days |
| Max elevation (ft) | 7200 ft |
| Best season | May-October |
| Minimum vehicle | High-clearance 2WD (4WD recommended for Medicine Lake spur) |
| Nearest town | Alturas, CA |
| Land manager | USDA Forest Service – Modoc National Forest / National Park Service – Lava Beds National Monument |
| Permit required | No |
| Cell service | None |
| Water crossings | No |
| Dispersed camping | Yes |
| Official sources | NPS Lava Beds – Visitor Info Modoc National Forest Tule Lake NWR – USFWS |
| Start coordinates | |
| End coordinates | |
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Location
Trail Conditions
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Frequently asked questions
Can a stock Tacoma or 4Runner handle this route without modifications?
Yes. High-clearance 2WD is the minimum for the main route — a stock Tacoma or 4Runner is more than enough. If you add the Medicine Lake spur, 4WD is useful but the road is still graded gravel, not technical.
When does the route open after winter and is snow a real issue?
May through October is the reliable window. The Modoc Plateau sits above 4,000 feet and can hold snow into late April. The Medicine Lake area near 7,200 feet may stay closed until June — check with Modoc National Forest before heading up that way.
Do I need any permits or pay fees to drive through Tule Lake and Lava Beds?
Tule Lake National Wildlife Refuge has no entry fee for driving through. Lava Beds National Monument charges a $25 vehicle entry fee (7-day pass) — exact change or a card at the self-pay station. No permit is needed for the main overland route itself.
What's the hardest section and what should I actually expect?
This is a genuinely easy route — no technical rock crawling, no shelf roads that will make your palms sweat. The roughest stretch is typically the dirt and gravel sections across the plateau where washboarding and soft shoulders can grab tires if you're moving too fast. Slow down, it's not a race.
Is there any cell service on this route and how far is the nearest gas from the trail?
Cell service is essentially nonexistent for the majority of this 95-mile route — plan as if you're completely off-grid. Alturas is your best fuel stop before you leave; Tulelake (the town) has a gas station near the northern end, but don't count on it being open. Top off in Alturas.
Trail track
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