Camino de los Artesanos – Tilcara to Iruya
Where mules once carried silver, your rig carries stories
The pickup truck ahead of you disappears into a cloud of red dust as you climb through quebrada walls that stretch back 10,000 years. The Camino de los Artesanos follows the same ancient mule routes that connected Tilcara to the mountain village of Iruya, threading through valleys where pre-Columbian civilizations carved terraces into cliffsides and Spanish colonists later drove silver caravans toward the coast. This 93-mile dirt route through Argentina’s Jujuy province climbs from 7,500 feet to 13,780 feet, demanding a high-clearance 4WD and two to three days to complete properly.
The trail winds northwest from Tilcara through a landscape that shifts from desert scrub to high-altitude puna grasslands. You’ll cross multiple streams—some ankle-deep, others requiring careful line selection—as the route follows Rio Grande tributaries upstream. Cell service cuts out completely after the first 20 miles, leaving you with paper maps and GPS coordinates in country where a breakdown means waiting for the next truck, which might be tomorrow. The Provincial Government of Jujuy maintains basic route markers, but this isn’t a maintained road. Rocks the size of basketballs litter the track in places, and washouts from summer rains can appear without warning. Stock vehicles will struggle with the loose rock climbs and elevation changes.
March through November offers the most reliable weather window, avoiding both summer’s violent thunderstorms and winter’s occasional snow at altitude. You’ll find dispersed camping opportunities throughout the route, particularly near the midpoint village of Coctaca, where ancient agricultural terraces still line the valley walls. The thin air at 13,000 feet hits harder than most North American trails, so carry extra water and plan shorter driving days. Fuel intervals stretch long—fill everything in Tilcara and carry reserve cans for the return trip.
This route rewards drivers who appreciate isolation over Instagram moments. You’ll encounter more vicuñas than vehicles, camp under star fields undimmed by light pollution, and follow paths that predate European contact by millennia. The Camino de los Artesanos connects you to a transportation network older than Rome, through landscapes that dwarf anything in the Lower 48. Come prepared for mechanical self-reliance and altitude, and you’ll experience overlanding the way it existed before GPS made everything predictable.
Trail Specs
| Difficulty | Moderate |
|---|---|
| Trail Type | Overland Route |
| Surface | Dirt |
| Features | Camping, High Altitude, Historic, Scenic, Water Crossings |
| Length (miles) | 93 mi / 150 km |
| Duration | 2-3 days |
| Max elevation (ft) | 13780 ft |
| Best season | March-November |
| Minimum vehicle | High-clearance 4WD |
| Nearest town | Tilcara, Jujuy |
| Land manager | Provincial Government of Jujuy |
| Permit required | No |
| Cell service | Spotty |
| Water crossings | Yes |
| Dispersed camping | Yes |
| Start coordinates | |
| End coordinates | |
| Copy both for Google Maps directionsClick to copy the directions URL · or open it directly in a new tab | |
| Find on Google | Search on Google → |
Location
Trail Conditions
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Frequently asked questions
Can a stock Hilux or Patrol handle this route, or do I need a built rig?
A stock high-clearance 4WD with low-range is the minimum — a bone-stock Hilux or Patrol will manage in dry conditions. Lift and skid plates help but aren't required; what matters more is driver experience on loose, off-camber dirt at altitude.
Is the route passable in December or January?
December through February is the Andean wet season — river crossings swell, dirt sections turn to mud soup, and some stretches become impassable or dangerous. Stick to March–November; late March can still be risky depending on how late the rains ran.
Do I need any permits or pay fees to drive this route?
No formal permit is required to drive the route itself. If you pass through indigenous community land near Iruya, it's common courtesy (and sometimes expected) to check in with locals — there's no toll, but respect the protocol.
What's the hardest section and what should I be ready for?
The descent into Iruya is the crux — a narrow, switchbacking dirt track with steep exposure and loose rock that demands full attention, especially if you've got a long-wheelbase rig. Combined with 13,780-ft max elevation, expect your engine to breathe harder and your crew to move slower than usual.
How far is the last fuel stop before committing to the full route?
Fill up completely in Tilcara before you leave — it's the last reliable fuel point for the entire 150 km. Iruya has extremely limited supplies at the end; don't count on it. With high-altitude fuel consumption factored in, carry a jerry can if your rig drinks more than average.
Trail track
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