Rohtang Pass to Spiti Valley — Gramphoo to Kaza via Kunzum La and the Chandra River (Full High-Altitude Traverse)
Himalayas stripped raw — Kunzum La or bust.
At Gramphoo, the tarmac ends and Spiti begins its cold-shoulder welcome. From here you follow the Chandra River upstream through a raw glacial valley before the road climbs hard to Kunzum La — a 4,590m pass strung with prayer flags and swept by wind that has no respect for windshields. The descent into Spiti drops you into one of the most stark, arid landscapes on the planet: ochre cliffs, bone-dry air, and villages clinging to slopes like they’ve been there since the Holocene. Losar is your first fuel and chai stop. From there it’s a long grind up-valley to Kaza, the region’s de facto capital. River crossings are real — the Chandra and its tributaries cut across the track repeatedly, and water levels before late July can end your run.
This is not beginner terrain. You need a capable high-clearance 4WD — most drivers here run Mahindra Thar, Bolero, or a modified Gypsy — but a built Toyota or Land Rover works equally well. Fuel up in Manali; Kaza has a petrol pump but availability is unreliable. Carry two days of food and water minimum. The route is open approximately late June to mid-October; Kunzum La closes first. An Inner Line Permit is required for Spiti — get it in Rekong Peo or Kaza. Cell service is nonexistent between Gramphoo and Losar. The reward is Himalayan high-desert wilderness with almost no other foreigners on the dirt.
Trail Specs
| Difficulty | Expert |
|---|---|
| Trail Type | High Clearance, Overland Route, Technical 4x4 |
| Surface | Dirt, Gravel, Mixed, Rock |
| Features | Camping, High Altitude, Remote, Scenic, Water Crossings |
| Length (miles) | 115 mi / 185 km |
| Duration | 2-3 days |
| Max elevation (ft) | 15059 ft |
| Best season | Late June–October |
| Minimum vehicle | High-clearance 4WD |
| Nearest town | Kaza, Himachal Pradesh |
| Land manager | Himachal Pradesh Public Works Department / District Administration Lahaul & Spiti |
| Permit required | Yes |
| Cell service | None |
| Water crossings | Yes |
| Dispersed camping | Yes |
| Official sources | HPTDC Spiti Valley info Inner Line Permit portal |
| Verified | |
| Start coordinates | |
| End coordinates | |
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Location
Trail Conditions
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Frequently asked questions
Can a stock Mahindra Thar or Gypsy handle this route, or do I need a built rig?
A stock Thar or Gypsy with decent ground clearance can make it, but soft suspension and bald tires will punish you on the rocky Chandra River sections and Kunzum La's loose shale. Lift, good all-terrain tires, and a bash plate are serious considerations — not optional upgrades.
When does Kunzum La actually open and close each year?
Typically late June after snowmelt clears the pass, and it shuts again by late October — sometimes earlier after early snowfall. The BRO (Border Roads Organisation) makes the final call; check with locals in Manali or Gramphoo the day you plan to move, not just a weather app.
Do I need an Inner Line Permit for this route, and where do I get one?
Yes — Spiti Valley requires an Inner Line Permit (ILP) for Indian nationals and a Protected Area Permit (PAP) for foreign nationals. You can apply online through the Lahaul & Spiti police portal or get it issued in Kaza or Manali; carry hard copies because checkposts on this route are real and active.
What's the gnarliest section and what should I actually expect there?
The Chandra River crossings between Gramphoo and Batal are the crux — multiple unbridged fords, some thigh-deep on glacial melt, with no warning of depth changes and current strong enough to shift a wheel. Cross early morning before afternoon glacier melt peaks the water level, and scout every crossing on foot first.
Is there any fuel between Gramphoo and Kaza, and how much range do I need?
There is no reliable fuel stop until Kaza — 185km of high-altitude, low-gear driving that will drink your tank faster than flatland math suggests. Carry a minimum 20-litre jerry can as backup; running dry between Batal and Losar is not a recoverable situation on your own.
Trail track
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