Ricchi e Poveri Road — Gennargentu Highlands to Punta La Marmora via Barbagia Plateau
Sardinia's wild rooftop, no crowds, no mercy.
Most people come to Sardinia for the coast. A handful come for this — a rugged dirt and gravel traverse through the Barbagia interior toward Punta La Marmora at 1,834 metres, the highest point on the island. The route threads out of the Gennargentu highlands via unmaintained forest roads (strade forestali) connecting the villages of Fonni and Desulo, passing ancient shepherd huts called ovili, cork oak forest, and open granite moorland that feels nothing like Mediterranean Europe. The final approach to the summit area involves a rocky, loose-surfaced track that demands patience and decent wheel articulation. No crowds. No guardrails. Just wild pigs and the occasional Sardinian shepherd giving you a look that says he owns this land — because functionally, he does.
High clearance and low-range capability are required; a stock soft-roader will get sorted on the rocky upper sections. Tyres matter here — loose shale over granite is unforgiving. Best season is late May through October; winter snowfall closes the upper tracks. No permit required for the forest roads, but respect private agropastoral land — close every gate. Fuel up in Fonni or Desulo before heading in; there’s nothing between them and the plateau. Cell service is essentially zero in the interior. What you get is one of Europe’s most overlooked overland routes on a Mediterranean island that has no business being this wild.
Trail Specs
| Difficulty | Difficult |
|---|---|
| Trail Type | Backcountry, Technical 4x4 |
| Surface | Dirt, Gravel, Rock |
| Features | Camping, High Altitude, Remote, Scenic |
| Length (miles) | 28 mi / 45 km |
| Duration | 1-2 days |
| Max elevation (ft) | 6017 ft |
| Best season | May-October |
| Minimum vehicle | High-clearance 4WD with low range |
| Nearest town | Fonni, Sardinia |
| Land manager | Ente Foreste della Sardegna / Forestas |
| Permit required | No |
| Cell service | None |
| Water crossings | Yes |
| Dispersed camping | Yes |
| Official sources | Forestas Sardegna |
| Start coordinates | |
| End coordinates | |
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Location
Trail Conditions
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Frequently asked questions
Can a stock Jeep Wrangler or Land Cruiser handle this without modifications?
A stock high-clearance 4WD with low range can manage it, but rock sections near Punta La Marmora demand real articulation and confident low-range driving. Skid plates are strongly advisable — the exposed limestone will find your undercarriage. Lifted rigs with all-terrain tires have a meaningfully easier time.
When does the trail close and what kills access fastest?
The trail is realistically runnable May through October. Snow can sit on the upper Gennargentu plateau well into May, and autumn storms roll in fast after October. Summer thunderstorms are frequent at altitude — check the ARPA Sardegna forecast before you leave Fonni.
Do you need a permit to drive or camp on this route?
No driving permit is required, but sections pass through Forestas-managed land where fire is strictly prohibited and off-track driving is not allowed. Dispersed camping is tolerated in practice but check current rules with Forestas directly at forestas.it — enforcement and restrictions can change seasonally.
What's the hardest section and what specifically makes it rough?
The climb out of the Barbagia plateau toward Punta La Marmora is the crux — loose shale over bedrock, off-camber shelf road, and no bailout options once committed. The trail narrows to near single-track width with exposure on one side. Take it slow, pick your lines, and do not attempt it wet.
There's no cell service — how far is the nearest gas and what should I know about water on trail?
Fuel up in Fonni before you leave; there are no gas stations on route and the nearest reliable option is 30+ miles away. Water crossings exist but treat everything — carry at least 4 liters per person per day minimum. There is no rescue infrastructure out here; a sat communicator is not optional, it's the move.
Trail track
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