Cinder Hills Overlook Road to Painted Desert Rim — Petrified Forest North Backcountry via Blue Mesa Loop
225 million years of geology under your tires.
Most people drive the paved 28-mile park road at Petrified Forest, snap a few photos, and leave. The people who pull a backcountry permit and drop into the off-pavement interior see a completely different park. The route from Cinder Hills Overlook southeast toward the Painted Desert Rim traverses some of the most geologically surreal terrain in North America — striped bentonite badlands in purple, red, white, and ochre, log jams of 225-million-year-old petrified wood lying on the surface like scattered freight, and almost no other humans. Blue Mesa’s eroded pedestals and the Tepees formation are the visual anchors. No mechanized trail exists — you navigate by GPS waypoint and topo.
This is cross-country travel on soft, unpredictable bentonite clay. When dry, a stock 4WD with good clearance manages fine. When wet — even slightly damp — bentonite becomes a greasy trap that’ll swallow tires and leave you spinning. Check the forecast obsessively. A free backcountry permit is required and must be picked up at the visitor center the day of entry; group size is limited. No water in the backcountry — carry everything in. Cell service is gone past the visitor center. Camping is one-night only in the designated backcountry zone. Best run October through May.
Trail Specs
| Difficulty | Difficult |
|---|---|
| Trail Type | Backcountry, High Clearance |
| Surface | Dirt, Mixed |
| Features | Camping, Historic, Remote, Scenic |
| Length (miles) | 18 mi / 29 km |
| Duration | 1 day |
| Max elevation (ft) | 5800 ft |
| Best season | October-May |
| Minimum vehicle | Stock 4WD high-clearance |
| Nearest town | Holbrook, AZ |
| Land manager | Petrified Forest National Park |
| Permit required | Yes |
| Cell service | None |
| Water crossings | No |
| Dispersed camping | Yes |
| Official sources | NPS Petrified Forest Backcountry Permit Petrified Forest NP official site |
| Start coordinates | |
| End coordinates | |
| Copy both for Google Maps directionsClick to copy the directions URL · or open it directly in a new tab | |
| Find on Google | Search on Google → |
Location
Trail Conditions
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Frequently asked questions
Can a stock 4Runner or Wrangler handle this trail without a lift?
A stock 4WD high-clearance rig will get through, but the bentonite clay sections can get slick and rutted — low-range is not optional. Lifted rigs have more margin on the rougher washes, but stock clearance is the minimum, not a guarantee.
When does the trail become impassable after rain?
Wet bentonite clay turns into axle-sucking grease almost instantly — even a light rain can shut this route down for a day or more. Best season is October through May, but always check conditions before entry; the NPS can tell you current road status.
Do you need a permit to drive and camp in the Petrified Forest backcountry?
Yes, a free backcountry permit is required and must be picked up in person at the visitor center before you enter — you cannot get one online in advance. There's no entry fee beyond the standard park admission, and camping is limited to designated backcountry zones.
What's the hardest section and what actually makes it technical?
The bentonite hill descents near the Painted Desert Rim are the crux — loose, eroded surfaces with off-camber exposure and minimal traction when dry, none when wet. There are no dramatic rock ledges here; the difficulty is all about traction management and reading terrain that looks drivable but isn't.
Is there any water or cell service out there, and how far is the nearest gas?
There is zero cell service on this entire route and no water sources in the backcountry — carry all water you need for the trip. Holbrook, AZ is the closest town for gas and resupply, roughly 30 miles from the park entrance.
Trail track
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