Kjölur Route (F35)
Ancient highland passage between ice giants
The Kjölur Route (F35) cuts a 103-mile gravel ribbon through Iceland’s most desolate interior, following the same path traders used a thousand years ago to move between the north and south coasts. This ancient highway runs straight through the heart of the highlands, threading the needle between the massive Langjökull and Hofsjökull glaciers at elevations that peak around 2,130 feet. When the wind howls across this moonscape and the nearest cell tower sits 50 miles away, you understand why early Icelanders called this route the “Valley of Ghosts.”
The F35 demands a high-clearance 4WD but won’t punish a well-prepared rig. The gravel surface stays relatively smooth compared to Iceland’s more notorious F-roads, though river crossings and sudden weather changes can turn sections treacherous without warning. Most drivers complete the route in 4-6 hours during the June-September season when snow clears enough to make passage safe. Outside these months, the route closes entirely—winter here means business. The iconic Hveravellir geothermal area marks the halfway point, offering the only services and established camping along the entire route. Natural hot springs steam beside the road, creating an otherworldly stop where you can soak while glacial winds bite at anything above water level.
This isn’t a technical rock crawl or a mud bog—it’s an endurance run through terrain that feels more Mars than Earth. The emptiness stretches beyond what most North American drivers have experienced, broken only by distant glacier peaks and the occasional arctic fox. Fuel up completely before starting, carry extra water, and prepare for weather that can shift from calm to violent in minutes. Dispersed camping is allowed, but finding shelter from the highland winds becomes a survival skill. The Kjölur Route rewards drivers who respect its remoteness with landscapes that existed long before humans walked Iceland’s shores and will outlast us all.
Q: What type of vehicle do I need for the Kjölur Route?
A: The F35 requires a high-clearance 4WD vehicle but doesn’t demand extreme modifications like 35-inch tires or rock sliders.
Q: How long does it take to drive the full Kjölur Route?
A: Most drivers complete the 103-mile route in 4-6 hours, depending on stops at Hveravellir and weather conditions.
Q: When is the Kjölur Route open?
A: The F35 operates from June through September when snow clears from the highlands, closing completely during winter months.
Q: Are there services or fuel available on the trail?
A: Hveravellir geothermal area at the midpoint offers the only services, with camping and hot springs but no fuel stations.
Q: Can I camp along the Kjölur Route?
A: Dispersed camping is permitted throughout the highlands, though finding wind-protected sites requires careful scouting.
Have a dirty day.
Trail Specs
| Difficulty | Moderate |
|---|---|
| Trail Type | Overland Route |
| Surface | Gravel |
| Features | High Altitude, Historic, Remote, Scenic |
| Length (miles) | 103 mi / 166 km |
| Duration | 4-6 hours |
| Max elevation (ft) | 2130 ft |
| Best season | June-September |
| Minimum vehicle | High-clearance 4WD |
| Nearest town | Reykjavik |
| Land manager | Road Administration Iceland |
| Permit required | No |
| Cell service | None |
| Water crossings | No |
| Dispersed camping | Yes |
| Official sources | road.is |
| Start coordinates | |
| End coordinates | |
| Copy both for Google Maps directionsClick to copy the directions URL · or open it directly in a new tab | |
| Find on Google | Search on Google → |
Location
Trail Conditions
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Frequently asked questions
Can a stock Hilux or Land Cruiser handle F35 without a lift?
Yes. The Kjölur is one of Iceland's more forgiving F-roads — high-clearance 4WD is required, but a stock Hilux, Land Cruiser, or similar handles it fine. The river crossings are generally shallow, but depth varies with glacial melt, so never cross without checking conditions first.
When does the F35 actually open and close each year?
Typically opens late June and closes by late September or early October, depending on snowpack. Road Administration Iceland (road.is) posts official opening dates — don't assume it's open just because it's summer, and don't push it in shoulder months expecting a rescue if you get stuck.
Do you need a permit or pay any fee to drive the Kjölur Route?
No permit required and no fee to drive F35 itself. If you camp at Hveravellir, the geothermal oasis midway, there's a small fee for facilities use. Dispersed camping elsewhere along the route is allowed under Icelandic law but leave-no-trace rules apply strictly.
What's the hardest section and what should I actually be prepared for?
The river crossings — particularly Blanda and a few unnamed glacial tributaries — are the main variable. Depths shift daily with melt and rainfall. Beyond that, the route is mostly rough gravel with washboard sections; the challenge is sustained remoteness and weather that can turn fast, not technical rock crawling.
How far is it between fuel stops on the F35, and is there any gas along the route?
There is no fuel on the route itself — 103 miles of nothing. Fill up completely before leaving Reykjavik or Akureyri depending on your direction, and carry a jerry can as backup. Cell service is nonexistent along the entire corridor, so a satellite communicator isn't optional on this one.
Trail track
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