Makgadikgadi Pans Trans-Botswana Crossing
No track. No landmarks. Just salt and sky.
The Makgadikgadi Pans in northeastern Botswana are the dried remnants of a lake that once covered more of southern Africa than Lake Victoria does today. In the dry season, the Ntwetwe and Sua pans form a vast white expanse — dead flat, blindingly bright, and completely featureless. There is no track. You navigate by compass bearing and GPS, aiming for Kubu Island, the ancient granite outcrop covered in baobabs that rises from the pan floor like a hallucination. The approach to Kubu requires crossing soft pan edges where the salt crust gives way to bottomless mud — getting that call wrong means a long, miserable recovery.
This crossing is dry-season only — June through August. Once the rains come, the pans flood and become impassable. Tyres down to 1.0 bar or less on the soft sections; carry a compressor. Two-vehicle minimum is not a suggestion — it’s how you get out when one is axle-deep in brine mud 30km from the nearest tree. Fuel from Gweta or Francistown before heading out. Kubu Island is managed by the local Mmatshumo community, and a small entry fee applies. Camp on the island — sleeping next to 4,000-year-old baobabs on a dead sea floor is something you’ll spend years trying to describe.
Trail Specs
| Difficulty | Expert |
|---|---|
| Trail Type | Overland Route, Technical 4x4 |
| Surface | Mixed, Sand |
| Features | Camping, Historic, Remote, Scenic |
| Length (miles) | 112 mi / 180 km |
| Duration | 2-3 days |
| Max elevation (ft) | 2953 ft |
| Best season | June-August |
| Minimum vehicle | Expedition 4x4 with dual recovery gear and high-lift jack |
| Nearest town | Gweta, Central District, Botswana |
| Land manager | Botswana Department of Wildlife and National Parks / Mmatshumo Community Trust (Kubu Island) |
| Permit required | Yes |
| Cell service | None |
| Water crossings | No |
| Dispersed camping | Yes |
| Official sources | Botswana Tourism – Makgadikgadi |
| Start coordinates | |
| End coordinates | |
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Location
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Frequently asked questions
Can a stock Land Cruiser 200 Series handle this crossing, or does it need to be built out?
A stock LC200 is not enough here. You need expedition-level prep: long-range fuel tank or jerry cans for 300+ km range, sand tires at low pressure, dual recovery gear (two vehicles minimum), a high-lift jack with a base plate, and a compressor. The pan surface looks flat but hides soft crusts that will swallow a stock setup.
What happens if you try to cross outside June–August?
Outside dry season the pans flood — even shallow water turns the salt crust into impassable, vehicle-eating mud. Attempting a crossing during or after rain is genuinely dangerous with no rescue infrastructure for hundreds of kilometers. Stick to June through August, and even then check recent rain reports before you go.
Do you need a permit to drive across the Makgadikgadi Pans?
Yes. Kubu Island (a common waypoint) requires a permit and entry fee managed by the Mmatshumo Community Trust. Sections that pass through Makgadikgadi Pans National Park require a separate DWNP park entry fee. Sort both before you leave Gweta — there is no one to pay on the pan itself.
What's the hardest part of this crossing and what makes it technical?
Navigation is the crux — there is no track, no signage, and no landmarks for long stretches. A GPS failure or dead battery in the middle of the pan is a survival situation, not an inconvenience. Carry a backup GPS, a paper map, and a compass. Secondary challenge is soft crust sections near the pan edges where recovery without a second vehicle is nearly impossible.
Where do you get fuel and water, and is there any cell service on the route?
Fuel and water must be fully loaded in Gweta before departure — there is nothing on the pan. Plan for at minimum 300 km fuel range and carry all drinking water for 2-3 days. Cell service is zero for the entire crossing; a satellite communicator (Garmin inReach or SPOT) is not optional, it's survival gear.
Trail track
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