Argentina · Santa Cruz

Ruta Provincial 23 – Cueva de las Manos

9,000-year-old handprints in Patagonian wilderness

Moderate

The dirt and gravel stretch of RP23 cuts through the heart of Patagonian nowhere, leading to one of South America’s most significant archaeological sites. Ancient handprints cover the canyon walls at Cueva de las Manos, left by hunter-gatherers who roamed these windswept plains millennia before Europeans arrived. The route follows the Pinturas River canyon through desolate beauty that hasn’t changed much since those early artists worked.

This is moderate overlanding – high clearance essential, 4WD recommended for wet conditions. The 46-kilometer stretch from the main highway can get rough, especially after rains when the clay sections turn slippery. Spring through fall offers the best conditions, though Patagonian weather remains unpredictable. Fuel up in Perito Moreno before heading out. Wild camping is possible along the route, but the wind never stops. You’re here for the profound connection to human history and the stark beauty of untamed Patagonia.

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Trail Specs

Difficulty
Trail Type
Surface
Features, , ,
Length (miles)29 mi / 46 km
DurationHalf day
Max elevation (ft)2100 ft
Best seasonOctober-April
Minimum vehicleHigh-clearance 2WD minimum
Nearest townPerito Moreno, Santa Cruz
Land managerUNESCO World Heritage Site
Permit requiredNo
Cell serviceNone
Water crossingsYes
Dispersed campingYes
Start coordinates
End coordinates
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Difficulty
Official: Moderate

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Frequently asked questions

Can a stock 2WD pickup or high-clearance SUV handle RP-23 without 4WD?

Yes, high-clearance 2WD is the stated minimum and most of the route is manageable gravel steppe road. That said, if it's been raining the clay sections turn slick fast — 4WD gives you real insurance out here, especially since the nearest help is back in Perito Moreno, 46km away.

Is the route accessible in winter (May–September)?

Technically the road doesn't close, but Patagonian winters bring snow, ice, and brutal wind that can make the gravel sections genuinely dangerous. October through April is the reliable window — shoulder months (Oct, Nov, Mar, Apr) are often the sweet spot for fewer tourists and better light on the canyon walls.

Do you need a permit or pay a fee to visit Cueva de las Manos?

Yes, there's an entry fee to access the UNESCO site and the cave paintings themselves — as of recent visits it runs around 1,500–2,000 ARS per person, subject to Argentina's inflation so verify locally before you go. No advance permit is required; pay at the site entrance.

What's the hardest section of the route and what does it actually demand from the driver?

The descent into the Río Pinturas canyon is the one spot that gets attention — it's steep, loose gravel with exposure, and requires controlled speed and confidence on a narrow track. Nothing technical by hardcore standards, but it'll pucker a nervous driver in a top-heavy rig; take it slow and you'll be fine.

Is there any water available along the route, or do I need to carry everything from Perito Moreno?

There are water crossings on the route but no guaranteed potable water sources — carry everything you need from Perito Moreno before you head out. Cell service is zero on this road, so if you run dry or break down, you're on your own until another vehicle comes through.

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